The Log Blog

I can NOT wait

2011-07-15T12:21:00.000+01:00

I love British Sea Power, I love Port Eliot, I love summer, I love you all, I love everything (except may Wales and West Utilities for putting my gas pipe in the wrong place).

It's going to be a great Port Eliot this year. I can feel it.

Best shop

2011-05-11T17:05:00.000+01:00

My attention has been directed to all things house related. Far from the point at which I should be buying household goodies but I just couldn't help myself. Spotted these a while back but they'd sold out, after a protracted wait for the remake and almost daily website checks, I got me one, yeah, woo.

Had to be the SF one, it'll bring back fond memories of the trip of a lifetime. Check out Best Made's eclectic mix of cool stuff here.

Just before the howling northerlies took hold

2011-04-27T20:34:00.000+01:00

Time is a rather precious commodity at the moment. What with juggling a mental house build / renovation project and WCA waking up for the season (which means a 7-day work week for mon lucky mari), we don't get much quality time. Which is not to say I've not been making the most of last week's superb swell. Just mostly with whatever stragglers I can get my hands on. Happy to say boots and thermal rashie are a thing of the past. I managed a solid two hours in stiff SErlys with just 3mm (albeit snuggly merino lined). Yay. But nothing beats a wave or two with Mr Green.

Anyway, a rare gap in a busy schedule spotted, we sped up to North Cornwall for the day. Got in just before the wind got up. Long lefts, it was splendid. Followed by breakfast baps, a spot of shopping, ice cream tucked in a sheltered spot on the beach, sat in my pants making the most of the sunshine like an emmit, nice cuppa on the headland, a stroll along the cliffs to notorious posh hangout and dinner with a cracking bunch of North Cornwall's finest.

I think, partly for their rarity, I treasure these days. It was one to remember.

I'm no skater...

2011-04-18T11:49:00.001+01:00

but I like this.

Crazy Shit. Thanks bro.

Radio Silence

2011-03-18T13:29:00.000Z

My poor blog, feeling all ignored and unloved. Just dropping in to say hi, I haven't forgotten you.

Life has been manic.

Never one for an easy ride, just as the house gets sorted, we sell it and buy 'a project'. As of last weekend I find myself living in a hut. No internet, no telly, no cooker, no shower, no fridge. Just me, my man and the aged family pet. The first night, swathed in my adult babygrow, under 13 tog goose down and numerous blankets I wake in the night to find I'm in a giant fridge. I've become a walking thermometer, I can tell without even opening my eyes in the morning if there's cloud cover or not, I can see my breath indoors. Life is chilly.

It's glorified camping, not even that glorified really apart from a queen size French sleigh bed.

Thank GOD summer is on it's way.

It's not as bad as it sounds, well actually it is, but in the long term will be worth the blood sweat and tears of what is an enormous renovation project. I feel like a bit of a vagabond, cooking on a camping stove, scrounging hot meals and showers as I go.

On the plus side, I'm at least seven minutes closer to my favourite beach, I now have somewhere safe to leave my car so boards can be left on the roof for minimal pre-dawnie faffing and one day I'm going to have a rad house to live in.

I'm ashamed to say I haven't been in the water in over a month, so nothing exciting to report on that front, endeavouring to get the rest of the cali trip on here soooon.

*Please note, picture is not of actual hut and is for illustrative purposes only, it's far grander than ours

Tell your friends.....

2011-01-21T16:12:00.000Z

......tell your friend's friends.

Tomorrow 11am at Poldhu Cove, Mullion.

SAS have organised Motivocean, a beach clean with activity rewards. Free surf lesson afterwards for those that take part with West Cornwall Adventure. I know it's chilly but yes that's supposed to be an incentive, we have thick wetsuits!!

*Note to self, pack a thermos of hot chocolate for after.

It's gone cold again

2011-01-19T09:00:00.001Z

After two weeks of milder weather but nearly non stop rain the clear skies were back. I quickly forgot it's still January and how frosty the clear nights get.

Vintage Views

2011-01-12T19:46:00.000Z

So after a manic 3 weeks to plan a wedding I had a further 3 weeks to sort the wedding party. Easy. It's been a busy time!

Rather than have a wedding book for guests to write messages in, I thought it'd be fun to gather a whole bunch of vintage seaside postcards for people to leave their messages on. Some were sweet, some were funny, so were wonderfully rude, but these two have to be my favourites...

Only a few lateral thinkers opted for the front rather than the back.

The Grafter

2010-12-29T21:43:00.001Z

Love this picture. The sander at Michel's factory has been a busy chap.

Bon oeuf

2010-12-22T23:35:00.001Z

So, obviously a new board goes hand in hand with a trip to Cali!

Top of my list would've been a nice traditional log but what with baggage allowances and travelling around, plus my new longboard at the start of the summer, for once I decided to be a bit practical. I've been after a shorter fun-board type thing since having a go on my friend's Nineplus Magic Carpet a few times.

However, getting a new board on the west coast is a full kid in a candy store kind of thing, there's just sooo much good stuff out there.

Where to start?

I had to consider Geography, I wanted to be picking up my board early on, no point not having it for the whole trip. So, with a bit of advice from fellow blog buddies, I gave Michel Junod a shout. Tucked away in that funky little town and with a reputation that preceeds him, he was an easy choice.

Michel was great to deal with, really friendly guy. He took some time to chin wag, gave us a tour of his workshops and seemed entertained by our vocabulary. Top chap.

It's a 6'10" single fin egg and stripey, of course.

Santa Cruzin'

2010-12-20T20:20:00.000Z

Next stop of the trip, via a Half Moon Bay that was so foggy you couldn't see your hand in front of your face - let alone the possibility of the sea, was Santa Cruz.

A brilliant place, it's got that shabby, slightly neglected sea-side town feel, so reminiscent of many places back here, that just gives it a certain character rather than the twee cuteness of towns like Santa Barbara. I loved it.

So first day, we check out Steamer Lane, it was looking nice in the morning, glassy, shoulder-high, but with no boards, again we could only watch.

My bro, soon to be heading back to Canada was insistent he get in for a surf with us. The wind had got up a bit and there wasn't a chance I was going to attempt to ingratiate myself with the locals on a ten foot turd of epoxy at the lane, so the Bics at Cowells it was to be. This place, at the time mere knee high, was party wave central. Drop ins and straight-handers were order of the day, with no hard feelings and plenty of smiles. If you were lucky enough to score one to yourself though, unbelievably long rides. I imagine on a bigger day it'd be log heaven.

My boy, he married me in tweed.

2010-12-15T18:06:00.001Z

True English gent.

26º blazing sunshine in thick wool. Mmm. Toastie.

Wedding in SF was nearly as exciting as what came next...

If you're going to....

2010-12-12T21:35:00.002Z

Anyone?

Deco tram

Painted ladies

Small wave coming in at Fort Point, bit slack but good to see a few old boys out having fun. We had no boards at this point so we could only watch

Music to my ears

2010-12-10T15:01:00.000Z

Off to Falmouth to enjoy some beautiful melodies by this lovely duo...take three.

Can't wait. Anyone else coming for a spot of musica and stogs?

Remember me Eddie?

2010-12-07T22:33:00.003Z

Hello....anyone out there?!
Oh dear neglected blog, I've missed you some.
I did think about you now and again, look what I found...

Just returned from three weeks in California and a rather fun time was had by all. I'm now chubby, poor and married. Chubby, a result of ridiculously good but hideously bad American food, not wedded contentment, not quite yet! Poor as I'm the proud owner of a beautiful little egg crafted by top chap Michel Junod and married, well, cos Greener asked me!

So, back to reality with a resounding bump and into the thick of winter. I swear Autumn had only just kicked off when we left. Snow in November? Whatever next?!

Ho hum, the novelty hasn't worn off yet....but then I've not been in the water yet.

I'm going to spend the next few entries recounting our travels. We didn't get the best run of swell by any means (no surprise there), so these entries won't be all surf related I'm afraid.

Going broke for stoke

2010-11-12T11:11:00.000Z

Dearest blog buddies, I have some business to attend to stateside, concerning one Mr Green, SF city hall, an RV, an egg of sorts, a cruise down the coast, some nutters in Santa Barbara, a night in the Bellagio and a helicopter, amongst other things.

I'm signing off for three weeks.

Miss y'all already.

From the girl they call Wheardo.

There's something about...

2010-11-10T11:27:00.000Z

......Nautical charts.

Ever since I was taught to navigate properly on a course up at Lifeboat College I've had a bit of a thing for them. The detail is fascinating, especially how the coastline has changed between older and recent editions in urban areas. I've been letting the creative juices flow making some invites over the past couple of weeks and couldn't resist incorporating them somehow.

You never know they might even come in handy for discovering potential surf spots.

This looks cool...

2010-11-02T09:45:00.001Z

I miss it by 1 day.

Bumhole.

The golden years

2010-10-29T15:01:00.002+01:00

Now and again I get a bit nostalgic.

Nostalgia for times that are long gone, they could never be revisited or recreated and feel the same. I don't do insightful posts, this is about as close as it's going to get.

Life's all about balance, doing the things you love but also taking responsibilty for yourself and family. Getting on a bit I sometimes I wonder if I tried to be sensible too fast...'proper job', house etc, not that I regret any of these things, but they do force you to be a little bit more grown up, maybe I should've prolonged it for just a few more years! Gone are the times of half the year in Aus, summers in the red and yellows working on the beach with friends, surfing at work all in the name of 'training' and generally not having a care in the world. Stress was the odd exam at uni, steady on now.

In reality I'm really not that far removed from it all, (I thank God I'm not holed up in London slaving it out for the man), it's just now and again, today for example, I long to be shipping out carefree for the winter. It must be that shitty grey day, howling wind and the looming end of BST that's got me mulling. That and the fact that some of my little flock of friends are readying themselves for the winter migration south.

Gonna wash my bones in the Atlantic shores

2010-10-19T22:13:00.000+01:00

Sometimes, especially when I haven't surfed for a week or two, and I arrive at the beach to be presented with absolute glassy perfection, I literally shake with anticipation. With limited light left in the evenings, it's a mad scrabble to get changed and into the water, heart pounding away wildly at the thought of those long clean rides.

Is that just me being a little strange?

Vans, but not as you know them

2010-10-12T23:04:00.003+01:00

I wrote a little while ago on a collaboration Vans had done with Stussy on an exclusive limited edition girl's shoe 'the Bailie'.

Now for those of you that know me, it comes as no surprise I became a little frothy on getting me a pair.

I kept my eye out for what seemed liked weeks and weeks. By the time I twigged they were on sale most places were sold out and the one shop that had them was charging $80 for international shipping, that's $20 more that the cost of the shoe. Sod that.

It seemed that they were only available in the states and with only 2000 pairs made they weren't hanging around.

However, perseverance paid off.

Hollered at my good buddy in sunny SB who happily hooked me up, and hey presto!

Now I'm more of a Vans Classic kind of girl but there was something quite appealing about these broguesque leather beauties with subtle Stussy logos in the puncture work. Sweet.

White Shires

2010-10-05T21:43:00.003+01:00

The swell forecast had me frothing at my desk all day. As the day wore on reports were rolling in of building swell, some epic waves, bigger and better than expected. Southwesterly winds meant sheltered spots were the best bet, but the wind was light anyway. By 5.00pm reports of over 50 in on the world's best known secret spot meant I was having reservations about the potential shit fight in the line up. We headed a a bit further up the line.

As I looked down from the top of the dunes I could not believe my eyes, beautiful clean waves and only one guy in.

Then a set rolled through, hmmm.

Now I like a challenge but this required some gentle persuasion from Greenstick. Ok, fine. But I must admit I had butterflies as I was getting changed.

Paddling out, even the little ones had punch, waited a few out on the inside and during a lull paddled out to the middle bank. The side sweep was like a conveyor heading north. Several rolls later and I was past the middle bank. Only the monster sets on the outer bank to navigate. From up top this looked achievable as the lulls looked long enough.

Wrong.

A set reared up, oh fuck. I was so nearly there, my mantra kicked in 'don'tbreakdon'tbreakdon'tbreak.'

It broke.

Mega deep breath AND roll. Board instantly ripped out of my hands, got it back just in time to take the next one, even bigger, on the head, and washed back to the middle bank. Bollocks. Tugged back far enough that by the time that set had passed and I've paddled back to the furthest bank the next set has arrived. After several more roll, scrabble, paddle efforts and 20 minutes of solid paddling, I'm fucked. The final straw was climbing my leash back to the surface, water on the lung. So, tail between my legs, I make my way back to shore. Even copped a pounding trying to get a broken wave in on my belly it was just so damn big.

So lesson learnt...when it looks huge and there's no one in there's a reason for that.

Got to shore just in time to see my man take off on a bomb, looked like he wasn't going to make the drop, he was right at the top as it began feathering, next thing he's shooting across the face, it's double overhead+.

Hoots from the beach, yeeewww! (with only a touch of envy).

So, not a productive surf session, wave count 0, but glad I tried.The third guy in couldn't get out back either, that made me feel better. Success would've meant epic massive waves shared only with two others.

Next time.

This does not do it justice - shitty iphone pic!

Some inspiration...

2010-10-01T15:53:00.001+01:00

This will either inspire me or depress me.

I'm not hugely interested in surf competitions. Don't get me wrong, I love watching good surfing. I just prefer it when it's some impromptu dude in the lineup doing his own thing, but I think I'll make an exception this weekend. First time the European Longboard Tour has come to Cornwall and it promises some great talent. Forecast is showing a fair bit of swell and favourable winds, should be a cracker.

Father ol' Man

2010-09-27T21:57:00.000+01:00

The old man used to be a bit of a dude in his day. Having a dig around in Gran's attic a while ago I came across these pics of dad, probably 1973ish, substantially skinnier and longer haired, building a surfboard for an A-level CDT project.

I'm no surfboard historian but he was clearly influenced by board design of that era, narrow tail, the width in the front end of the board and altogether a lot more foam than modern shortboards, looks fun.

2010-09-20T21:05:00.001+01:00

Legend

Dear Danielle....

2010-09-10T12:46:00.000+01:00

....you sure were a lot of fun. Please come back while the water is still warm and the evenings are light(ish), we all miss you terribly.

Fang snapped this just before we headed out last Thursday morning. It was the first proper showing of a beauty swell that hung around for a good few days.

Seemed like everyone knew it was coming, 6.45am and already about 50 people in the water. I didn't realise it was going to be quite so chunky, a good 4-5ft at Perran meant the log was a bit of a beast, luckily, however, long lulls meant the paddle out wasn't too traumatic.

The wind picked up a little by about 8.00 but it was bang offshore so not affecting the form. The 16 sec period meant the lulls were so long at one point I convinced myself it'd dropped off, went for a few smaller ones further in...got caught on the inside as a set rained down. Schoolboy.

Gutted I didn't take my camera on any of those surfs, every now and then I'd catch myself just watching it, it was so perfect. Well nearly perfect....minus the couple hundred or so black forms dotted around.

New toy...

2010-09-05T20:57:00.002+01:00

I feel a winter project coming on.
Something to keep those long dark waveless nights interesting.
Not bought by me or for me, but I shall have a dabble, why not.

Shedding the prejudices...

2010-08-31T20:01:00.005+01:00

I'm guilty, as many of you probably are, of having the odd whinge about the waves getting more crowded, about learners getting in the way and old farts fishing on sit on top kayaks.

Well this summer has shifted my perspectives.

I've just returned to my 'proper job' after six weeks out of the office helping run our new fledgling company, West Cornwall Adventure, and it's taught me a few things.
WCA is an ocean based adventure activities company that runs coasteering, sea and surf kayaking and surf school sessions.

As we were setting up the company I'd get the odd comment about 'why do you want to encourage even more people to start surfing?'

My answer, 'it's fun, why shouldn't more people get to experience that?'

For the vast majority of 'learners', they come down to the coast for their annual holiday, have a surf lesson, maybe stand up, and go away stoked if they do. End of story. These guys crowd the white water, so what? If you really can't stand the sight of blue and yellow foam boards floating around the nearshore, just go and surf somewhere else, there's plenty of surf school free waves.

For me though, seeing the supreme joy on kids faces as they get to their feet for the first time never ceases to bring a smile to my face, to think I've helped in that process is cool.

As for sit on tops, don't knock it til you try it, I've explored far more of the coast this year than I have in all my previous years combined. I've found new caves, coves, plunge pools and watery routes around the rocks that I would never have seen had I just stuck to surfing.

On a flat, suuny day nothing beats a cruise round the coast, after all, it's just another excuse to get in the water.

It's been hard work, tiring, sometimes stressful but on the whole, very rewarding.

Fun times.

And now that I'm back at my desk, as predicted, the wind has swung around, there's a south easterly blowing, there's a swell on the way and the sun is shining.

Told you so.

Pic 1 thanks to Ben Selway, video Mr Boogtique and pic 2 Studiograff

Oooh yay, it's that time again...

2010-08-17T18:11:00.000+01:00

Plus live music AND a surf jumble thrown into the mix, looks like it'll be a fun night out.

This used to be a blog about surfing....

2010-08-17T17:58:00.000+01:00

...but it seems we're in the midst of a severe swell drought. My source of inspiration has dried up. I'm feeling a little starved.

So I digress.

Few shots from the weekend's festival.

But fear not chaps, I'm coming to the end of my six weeks out of the office. As soon as I get back behind that computer screen it will be pumping, it'll be September after all. The persistent stiff northwesterly will swing around and you'll be greeted with light offshores and corduroy lines.

Home is where you tow it

2010-08-16T23:29:00.000+01:00

Just spent the first weekend away in our new home away from home.

FUN TIMES.

Where better than at Vintage at Goodwood, a new festival this year celebrating 5 decades years of Britishness, including design, music, art and fashion from the 40s to the 80s, it was brilliant. Ok, so the Airstream isn't by any means British, but as far as old classics go, for me it ticks the box.

I seem to be developing a bit of a 'thing' for caravanning again. Just the smell of the propane burning on the stove takes me right back to my childhood when I'd go on big adventures with my granparents, all of 6 miles down the road to Gwithian for the whole 8 weeks of summer, back when we'd have heat waves and no rain. Golden days.

Cali calling

2010-08-10T16:48:00.000+01:00

Unintentionally, two of my latest music purchases have a distinctly Californian feel, Best Coast self entitled album and Admiral Radley's 'I Heart California.'

Maybe my purchases are telling me something, maybe I need to go back over there and find out.

Sadly not to be, work commitments means it's only a slim possibility I'll even leave the country this year. On a positive note my carbon footprint is tiny, so I can be a smug greeny. Just for this year though. I'm getting the itch to wander.

Oh well, my own little piece of Americana will be taking residence soon, froth froth.

Standby for further details...

Let's go surfing...

2010-08-09T15:39:00.000+01:00

Sketchboard, legend that he is, not only hooked me up with the new Drums album, but also tickets to their gig in Brizzol this November, sweeeet. A little something to put the summer blues to rest.

Talking about surfing, it's been distinctly absent for too long, a little cough of clean swell yesterday has all but disappeared again, boo...

Literary Fantastique

2010-07-26T22:50:00.000+01:00

Had another fab outing to the Port Eliot Festival this weekend. This year our travelling menagerie grew to some five folk and a splendid time was had by all. I didn't think the lineup was quite as strong as last year, but neither that nor the mizzle dampened the enthusiasm. The festival had certainly grown a little larger but it still retained all of it's magic.

Highlights summed up as follows: Cider, Kathryn Williams, cider, Fionn Regan, dance set DJ'd by Jarvis Cocker, cider, 1 minute disco, yummy falaffel, old felt hat, boogeying on down to some hideous pop, 3am chips, walking the plank, rum and ginger ale.

Sunday morning....not a highlight.

Tarp Surfing

2010-07-20T23:32:00.001+01:00

Check out the tarp SUP, GOLD

Bourgeois?

2010-07-19T22:33:00.000+01:00

Oui.

So, I found this blog last year where some funny, slightly bizarre chaps (who am I to judge?!) were heading off down the west coast of France on a cycling/surfing tour. It made for good reading for a few weeks, but like all good things, it came to an end...

But not quite, some months later I see a little newspaper in production, brillo! Oh I do love the feel of paper in my hands and print before my eyes rather than the characterless 'puter screen. The paper is a compendium of anecdotes and funky pics, good stuff. Check out their trip here

Here it comes...

2010-07-14T23:29:00.000+01:00

Tonight was either the prelude to something mahoosive or it peaked early. The 17ft @11 sec is supposed to be arriving early tomorrow but my guess is it'll have come early as it often does.

I got down the beach just before it got on the high tide bank and it was cranking. Every man and his dog had descended, the other beaches must not have been holding it too well.

Looked good but I had no board with me, not a problem, Greenstick said he had one for me.

Opened the back of the van...oh shit, it was a UV tinted dark orange triple stringer longboard he'd shaped well over a decade ago, it'd spent a least the last five years abandoned in the undergrowth down the bottom of the garden somewhere. It weighs a ton and doesn't float very well. Hey ho, it was that or sit on the beach and watch.

Tricky conditions, with bigger sets tending to close out and a shifting shoulder, I was sat there on that old turd of a board on the edge of my comfort zone. It was a good fun wave though with a nice steep drop. The hardest part was making it back through the shore-dump, fighting the backwash to scrabble up the beach before the next one got ya.

Just wish I had more than the crappy iphone camera with me. Will be going for a nose in the morning.

Learner driver

2010-07-13T09:44:00.005+01:00

After an epic couple of days surf last week to fuel the fire it's back to millpondish flatness, at least for a day or so. Why does the wind swing easterly just as the swell fizzles out? Anyway, in a bid to get on the water I went outrigging last night. Calm conditions, seemed like an ideal night to start learning to steer. For anyone who saw us from up the cliff, no I hadn't spent the best part of the afternoon supping betty's finest tucked away in a dark corner of the Sloop, I was perfectly sober, it's just damn hard to control! The size of the thing means every steering stroke needs to be anticipating what the boat is going to do before it happens, you've got to keep things subtle. One slight over-correction has you zig zagging all over the place. Add three more people and holding a line on a wave into the mix and it's quite tough. Fun though, and a great feeling when you pull on to a runner way out, up the rate as it peaks up into a wave then trim along whooping with three of your buddies. That's in 1-2ft, looking forward to getting out in some bigger stuff, but might just leave the steering to someone else for that.

Mother dear, she made me a sock.

2010-07-08T10:57:00.000+01:00

A bit like your granny knitting you socks but better....

Ma is a bit of a whiz on the old singer, thought I better get her to whip up something extra special for my new log.

I took a trip to the local charity shops, came home with an old kilt, a pair of curtains, a blazer, a skirt and a pair of jeans, added a couple lengths of sturdy cotton to the mix and voila!

Saw a pic of one similar online somewhere that I can't for the life of me remember where, inspired me, (well, should I say inspired me to get ma...) to do a bit of 'make do and mend' style DIY.

Thanks moose. xx

The best post-surf invention ever?

2010-06-30T09:52:00.002+01:00

I like a nice cup of tea, I especially like a nice cup of tea after a surf. For those of us not yet blessed with a VW California or some other such 'home on wheels'-wagon equipped with a gas ring, the Kelly Kettle could be your new best friend (haha I sound like a walking advert).

I don't know how it's taken me this long to find it but it is AMAZING!! I stumbled across it a couple of months back, frothed over it for a while and finally took the plunge and bought one (£37 - not the cheapest cup of tea ever, but multiply that but lots and I'm on a winner).

Took it out with us last week. Basically it's a bowl on a sort of double skinned billy can with a hole up the middle, you find some stuff to burn, stick it in the bowl and ingnite, the hole acts as a big chimney, water goes in the side spout and because of the big surface area the water heats up really quickly. Boiling enough water for 4 cups of Sri Lanka's finest in less than 4 minutes. Time wise, it actually kicks the gas ring's ass!

One hitch, there's lest combustible stuff in the dunes than anticpiated. We found more fuel lying around the car park, namely 3 ice-lolly sticks, half a peg and a pencil. Damn....we needed more.... I took it a step further and got some strange looks ferreting in the bin for discarded fish and chip wrappers...nice. Did the job though.

(Note to self, bring supply of newspaper and sticks in car next time)

Solstice Sessions

2010-06-21T23:35:00.000+01:00

That's it, longest day officially over. It's been a cracker. Two days of excellent surf AND blazing sunshine. Post surf cups of tea and biccies on the cliffs as it's getting dark, mutterings of "I can't believe it's quarter to eleven and it's still light enough to surf,' beach barbies with marshmallows on sticks, friendly folk in the lineup, getting a set on the head and popping up still grinning cos it's so goddamn good to be alive! Ok I'm having a moment here, it must be all that sunshine.

Summer 2010....I'm loving you.

Thanks Sketchboard and Fang for the pics

Vans x Stussy Oxford

2010-06-18T07:38:00.000+01:00

Is it me or are these RAD?
Two iconic brands have collaborated to bring a modern (girls only) twist on a traditional shoe. I even love the old style trunk box they come in.

I think I NEEDs a pair

Non seafaring activities

2010-06-17T19:03:00.001+01:00

I've just about recovered from my epic mission last Friday to see Band of Horses in Oxford. I don't do mega late night long drives without resembling a nodding dog too well, but it was well worth the 9hr round trip (made slightly longer by me chewing off Sketchboard's ear and missing the turn off the motorway...twice).

Nice to have a late afternoon stroll round the city in summertime, it brought back lots of memories and seeing stressed out younguns mid-finals reminded me I was wearing my rose tinted specs, it wasn't all hedonistic good fun. Mostly, but not all.

Felt like a right old tourist busting out the roid to get a couple of shots of the Sheldonian and Rad Cam.

Gig was absolutely awesome, it has ramped up my enthusiasm for the band to a new level. Was fretting my favourite song wasn't going to get played, but after a supremely long wait for the encore, they belted it out second to last song. Yewwwww.

This looks fun...

2010-06-11T09:36:00.001+01:00

I like Martin Harley, I like longboarding.
Might be worth a trek up the A3075

Plenty more fish in the sea?

2010-06-10T11:43:00.000+01:00

Everyone's doing their bit.

Out and about in a foreign part of the county last night, nice change of scenery.

Bereft of my sole mate

2010-06-05T19:10:00.001+01:00

Have you seen the right one?

My absolute favouritist, comfiest, skankiest old pair of vans.

In my haste to get away from the beach for some din dins, left on the roof of my car. The left was found abandoned in the middle of the road about a mile from the beach, the right....nowhere to be seen.

WHERE ARE YOU???

I miss you.

A to B

2010-05-25T21:51:00.010+01:00

The surf's a bit crap, so tonight the lads and I piled in the WCA landy, got deposited at the neighbouring beach and paddled from A to B.

I feel pretty unfit at the moment and I've not paddled the route on a board before, so was feeling a little nervous, figuring it would take at least an hour and not knowing if my spaghetti arms would hold up.

It was rather choppy, so after a couple of attempts knee paddling, I couldn't find a rhythm, so proned it all the way. My neck is not thanking me for that AT ALL.

I wore my 1mm neoprene top, half way was feeling pretty chilly, catching a little a wave up the beach it was like having a bucket of icy water thrown over me, brrr, and it's nearly June...

Time...45.04 min, it's a start.

... and then the rain came

2010-05-18T22:07:00.000+01:00

It appears that the swell dry spell is over.

Praise the Lord.

Three weeks I've spent frothing over my new log. I haven't dared take it in on anything less than clean little peelers for fear of a bad session caused by crap surf giving me bad first impressions. Well this evening provided just such conditions.

Verdict....I've fallen in love.

Then I pretty much crawled like a half dead man up the dunes.

Pic courtesy of Fang

The surf checker

2010-05-16T22:17:00.000+01:00

This is my bike, it's hefty and doesn't go up hills very fast.

I've seen pretty idealistic footage of girls in cali cruisin' down to their local break on bikes like these with big logs under their arms. Well, life isn't quite how it looks in the movies. I daren't pedal the mean streets of the village with my beloved log, firstly the take no prisoners 'ped gang of PT would have me in the hedge in no time and secondly cos I'm sure one gust of wind and me and my board would end up in a dinged up heap in the road.

So it comes out to make the 200m trip down to eyeball the waves. There's a big hill in the other direction, so that's it. The bike shop told me to bring it in after it's first 100 miles for a service. Umm ok, it might be a while...

The process...

2010-05-10T21:42:00.001+01:00

Newish article on Drift about the joys of getting stuck in, read it here

Roid Week 2010

2010-05-06T15:14:00.001+01:00

It's Roid Week 2010 on Flickr, nearly over now but it's been a great way of sharing and finding new images with other Polaroid lovers out there.

Go lose yourself here for a minute or two

Supreme Joy

2010-05-01T19:45:00.001+01:00

It's been a long time in the planning and making but I finally picked up my new log today. Having had a big input in the design and shaping I was a little apprehensive she wouldn't look like I'd pictured. She didn't, the tint was a little lighter, the pink was slightly subtler all in all it was better, all expectations were exceeded, phew. Only downside is in his haste Chris forgot to sign it but like I said, it won't surf any the worse for it.

Sweeeet.

Then debated on getting in for little wave this afternoon but as the wind had swung onshore I decided I was going to make she'd cured properly and save it for a properly nice clean day. I imagine there's nothing worse than having a crap first surf on a new board.

Reunion

2010-04-27T22:03:00.000+01:00

Yesterday was a good day. My birthday coincided with a nice bit of swell. So a crew of my buddies descended on Porthtowan for an evening surf. It'd been fairly grey all day but the sun finally peeked out through the clouds, it was a fairly clean 3ft, some nice long rides to be had. I love surfing with mates. Good.

Secondly, Sketchboard over there parted with a Cornish member of his 70s skateboard collection. When he saw my last post he decided it was too much of a family heirloom to keep hold of so passed it on to me, very touching.

So here it is, pictured 19 years years on from the picture in my previous post. It's about 40 years old. Dad skated it down Godrevy hill, oncoming car resulted in a bail into the hedge and a broken wrist. It's tiny, it won't be going anywhere near that hill any time soon.

Old School

2010-04-21T21:21:00.001+01:00

Going through some photos with Ma last night, found this old pic of me aged 8 on a homemade skateboard dad made when he was a kid. It's in my grandparents backyard, I remember finding it in their coal shed, they used to use it to wheel out bags of rubbish. I was so excited. After a lot of pleading with Nan and Paps to part with it, it now resides in Sketchboard's collection.

Interestingly when my buddy GH saw this pic earlier, he pointed out I have much the same stance when I surf, and I still stick my tongue out!

Dad claims he invented the skateboard(!), he made it years before they were available in the shops (in the UK at least) by dismantling a pair of old roller-skates, hammering out the trucks and attaching them to a bit of rounded off wood.

Slight nutter

2010-04-16T15:48:00.000+01:00

Fang found this vid a while back, I liked it lots and finally got round to buying their album. It's good ya.

A&J

2010-04-15T11:12:00.001+01:00

Last night hailed Falmouth's 3rd visit by Aussie folky siblings Angus & Julia Stone. Beautiful songwriting and music marred only by a continual hum of conversation.

I can't comprehend why people pay money to go to a gig just to stand there chatting to their mates at the tops of their voices rather than listen to the music. I was hearing the ins and outs of one blokes mate's business deal secured by his missus' firm hand shake blah blah blah drowning out the music when some legend about 3 metres away came over, leant in and gave him a big finger to lips shussssh. Least he had the decency to look embarrassed, for about 5 minutes, then he sparked up again.

We got an update on Julia's unrequited love, the song she subsequently wrote for him, lots of bits from the new album and a lovely cover of 'You're the one that I want' from Grease. Amazing how different a song can sound sung by a different voice in a different genre.

Me Dualie

2010-04-12T22:08:00.001+01:00

Is that a bodyboard for a really fat dude?
No, it's a DUALIE. Alternative surf-craft for shitty low tide dump.

This is for surfing with your buddy, not just with but WITH.
Exclusive to WCA

So wrong they're right...

2010-04-07T23:11:00.000+01:00

New foot attire from Vans courtesy of eBay.

All the alarm bells went off, too much, waaaay too much, I'm not talking money, I mean colours patterns etc.
Shall I? Ahem, well yes of course.

Decal Dilemma

2010-03-31T14:45:00.000+01:00

So I've spent the best part of a year conjuring up my dream board design. I've given hours of my life to discussing & pondering shapes and sizes. I've given nearly two days over to shaping it, steady now. A lot of thought has gone into tint/paint job, let's face it, after shape that's next important. So I don't want to fall at the last hurdle.
Chris (legend), having been in the shaping industry for decades has gone through numerous manifestations of his logo.
Question is, do I go full on old school and go with the decal he was using 30 or more years ago (notice the similarities to the old-school Tris logo...same artist)? Do I go a bit retro 80s, or do I take a more clean line approach with his current logo.
Hmm tough choice.
Quite taken with the original Alias brand but don't think it'll be much in keeping with the tint/spray job.

Neon 80s it is then....

Aye aye

2010-03-28T09:29:00.002+01:00

All the parts of the new log are coming together nicely, had my final sanding session yesterday. Just waiting on some volan to come in from the USA and it'll be good to go.

Ordered a couple of fins from the Capatain, they arrived on Friday much to my excitement. Opening the box I nearly died, the D-fin is frigging massive (I included the 10p coin for scale!), I bought it just out of sheer intrigue, want to know how one surfs, like a turd I expect but gotta try these things. The big ol keel is going to be my main fin, she'll go like a speed boat!

So all's looking good for summer, first blog of BST, I've missed you my dear!!

Oh and am I getting soft in my old age? cos I was out for a surf a couple of days ago, went through a couple of waves, wanted to cry the ice-cream was splitting my head in two so badly, so up went the hood, it's nearly the end of March??!!!

Band of Horses

2010-03-25T12:39:00.000Z

Just booked to go see these guys back in the land of my crazy drunken university days.

These guys are playing Oxford on the 11th June. Excited does not begine to describe it, I LOVE Band of Horses, have done ever since sketchboard over there gave me a copy covered in his spidery scrawl.
I feel a road trip coming on...

It takes shape...

2010-03-21T18:34:00.000Z

Mowin'...

2010-03-18T22:28:00.003Z

Shaping of the new log got underway today....

Had a really fun and interesting afternoon, watching it go from glued up blank chunk of foam to something resembling a board. Chris named it the Takybo, he used a Takyama Model-T template for the nose and a 40 yr old Bilbo template for the tail. It's chunky and fab.

Chris let me loose on it a few times, not just sanding block but handsaw, jigsaw, wood plane. All pretty scary, especially knowing how crap I was at CDT at school, however, I managed not to screw it up - big plus.

Part two.... rails, deck and nose concave coming soon.

Dato!

2010-03-15T14:13:00.000Z

The Datsun 120y.

Ferried us round the east coast of Aus for a couple of winters and did us proud. Apart from the freaky rattle it made when firing her up (later found out we were putting the wrong fuel in) and a bust radiator she just kept on going, even as the rust spots turned her from white to orange.

Apparently it was something of a cult car over there in the seventies, the preserve of c-list celebs and wannabe rich folk, confirmed by the thumbs up I'd get nailing it along the highway and hearing one guy in the carpark at Cabarita exclaim, 'Sentastional! It's a 120y!'

Got some very funny memories of this car, including a 120 mile round day trip on the hunt for a decent wave, knowing deep down there wasn't going to be one. It got out of hand, the driver wouldn't stop, we were all whinging cronically, bearing in mind the car has less room than a mini and had 5 of us in it, 3 broad chaps over 6ft, 5 longboards on the ropey $40 roof racks, can't sit up straight in the back, mid summer with no air con., sweaty, uncomfortable, but very funny.

It all started just going to check the surf at Burleigh, nah, might be better further down, just check Palmy, nah, might as well have a look at the Alley, nah, Tugun? Let's have a look at Green Mount, Snapper, D-bah, Fingal, Salt. Ok can we go home now, this is getting silly? Driver stern....'NO STOPPING', piled in, quick stop at the pie shop, onward. Byron, finally Ballina, unsurprising it was no good, why hadn't we just given up at the start? Quick hello to Ed our mate from Woolacombe lifeguarding in the ass end of nowhere, then shoehorn back in, nearly dying of cramp and heat exhaustion in the back, and where did we end up? Mermaid, 2 miles in the opposite direction from where we started.

Good times.

Play time

2010-03-09T20:16:00.003Z

A happy Fang....found some new tarmac to slide around on this eve.
It's all about the ride this week, nice little wave rolling in, grab it while you can.
Dawnie tomorrow folks?
Brrrr

Today was a good day...

2010-03-06T18:42:00.000Z

For several reasons.

The surf report showed there merest hint of a possible wave, so alarm set, got up at 6.20am trying to hit it before it got properly on to high tide. This is not a normal occurrence on a weekend day but had a very hectic day planned, would be my only chance to get in). Couldn't believe it, on a nearly flat Saturday there was already two dudes in the car park getting changed. Good sign, went and looked at the water, hmmm...what were they getting changed for? Surfable? Barely. Sat there for about ten minutes umming and aaahing, then saw two more dudes rock up with <9ft boards. Could these guys see something I couldn't?

So thought bugger it, be good to get in for a paddle at least. Well turns out it was pretty good fun, no more than thigh high on the sets but super clean and nice long rides. Got out, couldn't feel my hands but buzzing. It's been a while.

I then got home, a fin I've been hankering after was out of stock, but the chap emails me to say he found one in the warehouse. Result.

And lastly. Most importantly. The wheels were set in motion for something I've been planning for over a year and finally have the coin for. NEW BOARD. Woohoo.

Went and met with Chris Jones, legend. Had a good chat, order in. At this point dad interjected and said he had some sweet wenge for a stringer (ok not quite his words), comes out almost black when it's laquered. Styling. Sadly turns out the wenge was only coming in at around the 9ft mark, so back to the drawing board on that one. Could be patriotic and go for oak, after all on the beaut I've ordered weight doesn't really matter!

So, at this point I feel it only right to pay tribute to my trusty steed of the last decade. Love the board to bits, frigging hate the paint job (bought second hand - no my taste didn't desert me mid nineties). She's done me proud.

Good times.

What lies beneath...

2010-03-05T09:43:00.001Z

New article up on Drift, so if you're looking to kill five minutes and read my inane ramblings, cruise on over here...Drift.
Although, it's sunny out, doesn't happen often, go for a nice walk or something first.

Roll away your stone...

2010-03-04T11:03:00.002Z

.....and hit up this gig.

Big fan of these dudes and they're coming to Eden, yewww! Was only lamenting at the weekend that none of their gigs extend to any part of the Westcountry, then on Tuesday my prayers were answered. 2nd July, tickets on sale next week. Mumford and Sons supporting the Doves but I think they'll definitely be the show stealers.

If you haven't given them a listen, DO!

You know when you pass someone in the car obliviously singing away and have a good giggle at how stupid they look? Well, that's me when that CD is on. More than once I've been caught head back(ish...still eyes on the road) gob open, hollering at the top of my lungs in the car, amused looks from drivers passing in the opposite direction. But I don't care, I swear belting out a good tune releases some crazy endorphins.

Greenstick

2010-03-02T11:13:00.003Z

Where it all began....

Are summers as long and hot these days?

Is the surf as glassy?

Do those rose tinted specs get rosier with age?

Aaaaarrr

2010-02-25T16:31:00.003Z

Beware of pirates!

Bleak

2010-02-18T17:49:00.000Z

This scene will be looking rather different in less than four months.....hopefully. Noticeably lighter evenings, after work surfs on standby, summer's on the way chaps!

Boo hoo

2010-02-08T21:06:00.001Z

The trouble with surfing is that it's such a flipping laugh that as soon as you've satiated the appetite for a wave, you're back planning, checking, sussing out when you might get in again. This appetite for wave riding, coupled with limited daylight opportunities this time of year AND setting up a company is very hard work. In my case I'm sharing only a fraction of the burden of the planning and organising but it means the majority of my spare time is taken up with 'jobs'. So when I'd spent two full days this weekend scotchbrighting, hammeriting, scrubbing and someone told me it was shoulder high and clean as a whistle on the south coast on Saturday and similar on the north coast on Sunday I wanted to cry, cos all of a sudden it's Monday again and I'm back at my desk for another week.

Boo hoo, woe is me.

So if you had a fab surf or two this weekend, tell me all about it as I sit here sucking lemons!

Sweet

2010-02-02T11:58:00.006Z

I'm all for the quirky and little bit different. Californian wetsuit brand Candy producing some funky off the wall wetties.....just for the laydeees.

Yesss.

http://www.candywetsuits.com/

And I thought Tregea Hill was bad?!!

2010-01-29T11:00:00.001Z

Museum of British Surfing

2010-01-27T09:28:00.003Z

A big thank you to the Museum of British Surfing for my copy of Bustin' Down the Doors. Think it's the first time I've won anything and was delighted to get a copy via their online competition. Doing a stirling job of preserving the history of British surfing, the museum is now a registered charity, and hopefully will have a permanent premises in the not too distant future.

Queen B

2010-01-22T09:31:00.005Z

Stoked with my interview with Belinda Baggs for Drift....(go have a peak). I've got a huge amount of respect for not only for her super stylish surfing, but what she stands for and her profound love of the ocean.

Find out more at Patagonia

Photos by Adam Kobayashi

Snap

2010-01-20T21:37:00.004Z

I'm fairly new to the world of photography, or at least in any artistic(ish) sense, however when a friend got in touch a week or so ago to say he'd inherited over twenty or so cameras, triple that number of lenses and all sorts of random accessories I was pretty excited. He hit me up cos he's seen me at the surf club snapping away on my old polaroid land camera.

The sight I was greeted with was pretty spectacular, vintage cameras, new DSLRs, all sorts of SLRs, TLRS, leicas, minoltas, mamiyas, a couple of hasselblads, rolleis, medium format, large format, you name it, it was there. The down side being my extremely limited knowledge meant I was fairly clueless as to what I was looking at but it was pretty special to behold, a lifetime of collecting.

I came away with this little gem, the only polaroid in the collection, but a beauty nonetheless.

Aborted surf mission

2010-01-12T13:44:00.004Z

So I was hoping to get in for a wave this weekend but by the time I got to the beach the NErlys had whipped up and it was just a chest high slop. Now on the one hand I was a little bummed cos I had my new polypro hooded rashie to try out, but on the other hand the wind chill must've been about -40ºC so there's a small part of me that was mildly releived it just wasn't worth it. Lame I know but the thought of exposing myself to the elements when there's snow on the ground is not one I relish. Particularly when I got to the beach to find snow had actually settled on the sand.

These are my first diana+ shots, bought the camera about a year ago but this is the first time I've got round to using it, bit crap and out of focus but I had fun snapping away nonetheless

Finally

2010-01-10T11:30:00.006Z

The eagle has landed.....

My much awaited copy of ladies surf flick Dear & Yonder finally arrived and what can I say, it lived up to all expectations. I first blogged on it back in August, however the DVD's release took ages and unfortunately the screening skipped Britain but I've finally seen it and it was fab. Shot on 16mm, with a lilting voice-over of the history of women's surfing, some archival footage and a few abstract scenes it felt very Sprout-esque, not bad thing and unsurprising considering one of the filmmakers was Thomas Campbell's wife Tiffany.

The film documents all walks of wave riding life with longboarding, bodysurfing, WCT surfers and sailing solo on a big boat across big seas. The individuals it profiles are all really inspiring, impressive women. I think my favourite part is Judith Sheridan bodysurfing Mavericks. Ballsy.

The soundtrack rocked with music from current favourite Band of Horses, as well as Feist, Calexico, King City and Black Mountain amongst loads of other gooduns I've not come across.

I really think it is beautifully shot and edited, with some epic surfing sequences it should appeal to man and women alike.

Later noughties

2009-12-31T17:42:00.002Z

Snakewise from top: Ruby's Diner on Huntingdon Pier, Greenstick sunset surf, Godrevy Lighthouse, autumn wave, pelican on Seal Beach Pier, Fang on dawn patrol, outrigging at Carbis, empty break, Gary - God rest your tasty soul.

All in all 2009 has been a pretty wicked year.

Thanks to all that made it.

Out with the old, in with the new

2009-12-28T13:40:00.003Z

A Little Christmas Pressie

2009-12-21T11:22:00.005Z

Hopefully the low pressure won't interrupt Santa's deliveries, but it's looking promising for SW sheltered spots on Christmas Day, fingers crossed.

That's how we roll

2009-12-14T18:06:00.009Z

There's nothing better than a good gig with a nice cup of tea.

I whiled away the ebbing remains of my weekend at a gig at Miss Peapods last night. Martin Harley of the Martin Harley Band is currently doing a solo tour of the UK. His music is a mixture of upbeat blues, folk, acoustic and weissenborn lap slide guitar, it's hard to pin him down to any one genre but man can he pick, and sing and entertain, what a dude! I'd say he's a little reminiscent of John Butler Trio, Ben Harper and the Beautiful Girls but with a much bluesier edge, so maybe crossed with a little Seasick Steve. I was intrigued after hearing stories of his travels taking him to nunneries as a pancake tosser, gigs in skips and improvising a capo out of knicker elastic, very fatigued he stressed.

He really engaged with the crowd, regaling us with stories of trying to soulfully sing his way out of an arrest inspired by a famous 30s blues musician (less successfully) and living the dream travelling across Aus in a battered Holden station wagon only to come back to the UK to work in a hand dryer factory. His music is centred around his relentless restlessness for travel and stories from the road.

Peapods was a fab setting, in one of the new eco buildings with it's mish mash of 60s decor, mismatched crockery and comfy seats, so I really didn't feel out of place supping on my cup of tea rather than necking a few pints of Betty's best (John). The crowd was terribly polite and wonderfully laid back. That was until a trio of exhibitionist art college lady lovers decided to make the 3ft square area in front of my seat the dance floor. Hey I shouldn't complain, I was only inches away from a lap dance from an ample, floral curtain clad be-hind. People pay good money for that sort of thing don't they?

Brrrrr

2009-12-07T14:22:00.009Z

Been having a few roid troubles (pola that is) so was glad to get it up and running this weekend. I took these stormy snaps yesterday, the wind was so cold I couldn't even imagine getting changed and going in the sea.

I'm getting a bit frustrated at the moment, office hours and rubbish conditions at the weekend mean I've not surfed for a while and I'm missing it! Magiclieweed always shows such promise for the weekend on Monday/Tuesday but it always seems to slowly deteriorate by Thursday/Friday. I'm sure if I had time to go looking there's always somewhere sheltered and offshore, but short of dedicating my entire weekends to hunting for waves (which, whilst trying to set up a business is a no no) I'm not going to be getting in much. Boo hoo.

So the broken record repeats itself...roll on summer.

On the surf related plus side the surf jumble held at St Merryn this weekend was a great little social gathering, picked myself up a couple of bargain DVDs that have been on the shopping list for a while. Coupled with copious amounts of tea, fab carrot cake and longboard wishlist chat I thorougly enjoyed it (even though with all my shopping I only came away a fiver up!).

Almost famous

2009-11-30T14:11:00.008Z

Ere, our outrigging excursions made the local rag.

Nothing remotely Hawaiian about yesterday's conditions though. Encased in 5mm of yamamoto's finest, gale force winds, hungry seals and choppy seas made it feel more like a polar expedition (ok maybe I exaggerate a little, but it was freeezing). Still, with a strong tail wind, catching the runners was fun. Nearly as much fun as a four-man nose dive in the shore dump, woo yeah!

Fang the Ripper

2009-11-24T10:39:00.002Z

Crap surf?

Next best thing.

Sketch Holiday

2009-11-19T19:58:00.000Z

The pending Switchfoot release has prompted me to blog about one of my favourite artists. Harry Daily, otherwise known as Harry the Hat, featured prominently throughout the last book and I believe will do so in the second installment. I first stumbled across his work a number of years ago when I was living in Australia, in a tiny little art gallery called Sheoak, on a quiet road in Fingal. I felt his washed out, floaty slightly nostalgic images really conveyed what a day at the beach or on the water is all about. He really captures the essence of escapism. Ooh I almost got a bit deep there.
Unfortunately I missed his exhibition at the Driftwood Gallery when he was touring with the first Switchfoot release but I was lucky enough to see a few small paintings at the Happening last summer.
The image above is a print on canvass that takes pride of place in my house, maybe one day I'll be lucky enough to have a real one.
I hate to be repetitive but.....roll on summer, not that bikinis feature widely in British surf sessions!

A November day on the water

2009-11-15T16:32:00.003Z

Aloha!

An Hawaiian theme to today's water activities. The first time I've tried outrigging and I loved it. Would be fun in some bigger waves.

Anyone fancy a try, my mate Glenn is running morning sessions every other Sunday at Carbis Bay.

Apart from the chill in the air and the water temperature it could've been summer!

A Cornish Institution

2009-11-14T12:22:00.003Z

So much promise held inside the little yellow booklet. Dawnies and after work surfs dictated by its pages. What epic sessions will 2010 hold?

Looking forward to getting my mitts on this

2009-11-12T12:53:00.003Z

Looks even chunkier and more full of goodness than the last one

Summer blues got the better of me...

2009-11-08T21:33:00.007Z

So I shipped out to Morocco.

Winter's hardly begun but I was overwhelmed with the desire to feel the sun on my face and stave off chilly winter water, just for one more week.

It's been on my list of surf trips for a while, and apart from the huge swell with raging onshores at the end of the week, reminding me far too much of what I was likely to be returning home to, it was great. An eclectic mix of beach break, point break, reef and a sweet cruisey right-hander at a local secret spot made for some great sessions.

Crappy conditions during the last couple of days saw me head for Marrakech. It's hard to describe the craziness of that city, in the walled medina with Jemaa el Fna at it's centre it's like stepping back into biblical times. In the souks with miles of stalls of everything from leather pouffs to spices to jewellery it's easy to get lost for hours. Snake charmers, performing monkeys, bands, story tellers, juice bars and food stalls selling everthing from escargot to 'lady's fingers' cram into the square at night making for an assault on the senses.

Waves, sun and a bit of sight seeing, couldn't ask for anything more.

Happy Halloween

2009-10-31T07:00:00.001Z

Every cloud has its silver lining, sort of.

2009-10-28T10:14:00.009Z

Ok so I'm scraping the barrel to stay positive about the crappy lack of daylight we now have, but here goes......for a brief spell we get early dawnies back (not the end of BST still dark at half seven dawnie but the proper early set the alarm for 6 dawnie), meaning more water time before work. Although it'll only last a few weeks it's now light again at half six, yay!

Was that convincing?

No, didn't think so either.

However, yesterday's sunrise and big empty lineup was worth the stumble out of bed. The only downside being this small weekday window of opportunity is easily messed up by the tides. Yesterday was all about the balls of steel late takeoffs and crazy closeouts. Not the most relaxing of early morning surfs but I still got to sit at my desk all salt encrusted smug in the knowledge that I'd already done something fun with my day and it was only nine o'clock.

(By the way, the top pic is a puddle in the beach carpark, sun rising over the dunes. Not a lake in some exotic country as someone suggested!)

Bustin' Down the Door....

2009-10-26T13:29:00.003Z

This Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Monday at the Poly.

If you missed it first time round with the Surf Screen, here's another chance to see documentary film chronicling the rise of professional surfing in the early 70's. The film follows a group of surfers from Australia and South Africa as they relocate to Hawaii.

Soundtrack including music from Bowie, Leonard Cohen, Eels and the Stooges, narrated by Edward Norton, this film has been given great reviews all round.

Looking forward to it.

So long summertime, we'll be thinking of you....

2009-10-25T00:26:00.003+01:00

Big Wednesday? Not so much

2009-10-21T21:53:00.004+01:00

The 12.5ft @14 secs predicted wasn't quite as monstrous as I'd hoped. In fact seeing the size of the waves rolling in the harbour yesterday evening, I think it came early, but is was a nice size this evening and a stiff offshore breeze made for a sweet spray spitting off the back of the waves.

Fortunately precision surfing and a last minute bail meant Fang didn't eat 9'1" of custard point. Got to make the most of the dying days of BST. With limited light meaning limited water time there was no time for fannying around snapping piccies this eve, but it was as nice as the weekend and the stoke lives on....

Instead I've deposited a snap of my new toy, fun times ahead.

More busting out of the office weekend radness!!

2009-10-20T11:59:00.003+01:00

Still buzzing!

The Weekend in Pictures

2009-10-18T19:12:00.007+01:00

Two words.....surfed out

Viva Polaroid!

2009-10-14T21:55:00.006+01:00

I got an email update today from 'the impossible project' a group of instant film die hards that are campaigning to reinstate production of Analogue instant film by 2010. Polaroid instant film ceased production in 2008, impossible b.v acquired the film production equipment and have since been working within a limited timeframe to develop a new take on analogue film.

Today an announcement was made that Polaroid has been inspired to re-release one of it's iconic instant cameras. Sweeeeet. I always remember as a kid being totally awestruck by the idea that a camera could spit out a picture, job done. I've been cruising ebay for for a few weeks now and managed to pick up an old beaut for 99p, I'll standby with childish anticipation for results.

What a day.

2009-10-13T16:37:00.004+01:00

Trippers gone, sun out, light offshores, clean peelers.

Two surfs, one of them epic. The best possible use of a day's holiday. Today meant I'll be chained to my desk on Christmas eve, was it worth it?

Hell yeah!